Barbera d’Alba “Pre-Phylloxera” 2018 – Elvio Cogno

The 2018 Barbera d’Alba DOC “Pre-Phylloxera” crafted by Elvio Cogno is a masterclass in the elevation of the Barbera grape to its highest form, a celebration of an ancient varietal untainted by the passage of time and the vicissitudes of viticulture. This wine originates from venerable vines that have been spared by the phylloxera blight, a catastrophe that reshaped the landscape of European winemaking in the 19th century. These pre-phylloxera vines, deeply entrenched in the fertile soils of Piedmont, offer a direct conduit to the genetic and cultural heritage of the Barbera grape, presenting an unadulterated expression of its character.

Barbera, a varietal indigenous to Piedmont, is celebrated for its high acidity and robust fruit flavors, traits that have endeared it to both winemakers and wine enthusiasts alike. The “Pre-Phylloxera” designation signifies not just the historical continuity of these vines but also their ability to produce a wine of extraordinary complexity and depth. The ancient vines yield fruit that is profoundly concentrated, imbuing the wine with a richness and intensity that are seldom encountered in younger plantings.

The “Pre-Phylloxera” Barbera d’Alba DOC from the 2018 vintage is the result of a harmonious interplay between an exceptional terroir and a season of optimal climatic conditions. The meticulous care with which the Elvio Cogno team manages these ancient vines ensures that each cluster of grapes is a distillation of the terroir’s essence, encapsulating the nuanced flavors and aromas that define the Barbera varietal. The 2018 vintage, characterized by its balanced weather patterns, allowed for the slow and even maturation of the grapes, a crucial factor in the development of the wine’s layered complexity.

In crafting this wine, Elvio Cogno adheres to a philosophy that balances respect for tradition with a judicious application of modern winemaking techniques. The grapes are harvested manually, a testament to the winery’s commitment to quality and precision. The vinification process is designed to highlight the intrinsic qualities of the Barbera grape, with fermentation in stainless steel tanks to preserve the varietal’s vibrant fruitiness and natural acidity. The aging process, conducted in oak barrels, is carefully calibrated to ensure that the wood complements rather than overwhelms the wine, adding subtlety and depth while allowing the character of the ancient vines to shine through.

Tasting the 2018 Barbera d’Alba DOC “Pre-Phylloxera” reveals a wine of remarkable sophistication and elegance. The palate is greeted with an abundance of ripe fruits, including cherries and blackberries, interwoven with hints of spices and a gentle earthiness that speaks to the wine’s terroir-driven origins. The acidity, a hallmark of the Barbera varietal, is both vibrant and beautifully integrated, lending the wine a refreshing crispness that balances its fruit-forward profile. The texture is silky, with a complexity that unfolds gradually, revealing layers of flavor that culminate in a long, lingering finish.

The Barbera d’Alba DOC “Pre-Phylloxera” 2018 stands as a tribute to the enduring allure of the Barbera grape and the dedication of those who cultivate it. This wine showcases the extraordinary potential of pre-phylloxera vines to produce a Barbera that transcends the ordinary, offering a window into the past and a taste of Piedmont’s rich viticultural heritage. Through this exceptional vintage, Elvio Cogno invites wine enthusiasts to explore the depths of the Barbera varietal, celebrating its history, its vitality, and its capacity to delight and surprise.